My Last Week in Chile

Last Sunday my mom and I left the island of Chiloé to head north for the adventure town of Pucón.  Pucón sits at the base of an active volcano, Villarica, whose top continually pours a white cloud of smoke.  It was a little unsettling.  What is usually a half-day trip on two buses became an eleven hour fiasco on six.    After the bus on the second leg of the trip broke down, we were forced to catch a series of buses that brought us minutely closer to our ultimate destination.  We finally arrived in the town after dark, grabbed a nice dinner and promptly fell asleep in the hostel.  The next morning we took our time getting ready before our scheduled horse ride in the Andes.  Though the weather was not on our side, we were astounded by the beauty of this part of Chile.  I found the South such a refreshing contrast to the hot, arid North from where I came that I celebrated the downpour.  The horse I was on was eager to gallop at any opportunity while my mom’s, appropriately, preferred to take its time along the trails.  After the four hour ride we were cold, wet and particularly sore and eagerly accepted the opportunity to visit a series of hot springs that night.  Our idealized view of this late-night visit to the hot springs was an immense contrast to the actual experience.  By the time we left that evening the weather had not improved.  For two hours we scampered between the tepid pools in our swimsuits on poorly-lit and rocky, trails carrying a bottle of wine and our belongings, vainly protecting them from the rain by our jackets (it was not safe enough to leave our bags in the changing shacks).  We could finally relax when we were dry and warm in our beds.

The next afternoon we took a rafting trip along the Trancura River, a name given to the river by the native Mapuches to mean river of rocks.  The difficulty of the river reached classes III and IV (out of V) and I am certain the only reason my mom was willing to take the trip was because she had no idea what she was signing up for.  She was very surprised to find out that there were no safety belts in the raft and that a foot wedged in the raft was the only thing that kept her in the unstable boat.  With that said, I think she enjoyed in more than anyone on board.  We both agreed it was frightening and thrilling and one of the best adventures we’ve had here.

Wednesday we left Pucón with a greater appreciation for the Andes to head north again to Temuco.  After arriving there to more rain and cold we quickly changed our plans and took the nine hour overnight bus to the historical, coastal town of Valparaiso.  Valparaiso is characterized by its 40-something steep hills covered in brightly-painted homes and wall art.  We spent the first day there exploring the town and appreciating its unique character and diversity.  The next day we went on a tour run by the hostel to several different destinations around the area.  We first, at 10 am, visited a winery in the Casablanca Valley for a tour and then wine tasting session.  By the time we arrived at our next destination at noon we were extremely drowsy and slightly intoxicated.  After lunch, in which I found a fly in my empanada, we headed to the coastal home of the late Chilean poet and political activist, Pablo Neruda.  Though the home was modest compared to what one may expect for a Nobel Prize winner, it was filled with his many collections gathered on his worldly travels, including insects, shells, glass bottles and nautical instruments.  Our last stop consisted a short hike to a rocky shoreline on the Pacific and then to an old whaling village for a snack.  The tour was very fun but made much more enjoyable because of the company we met while on the tour.  While traveling abroad interesting and unique people are in no short supply.  We have hardly eaten a meal alone as there is always at least one other person willing to chat about there homeland and travels over dinner.

Saturday we took a morning walking tour through Valparaiso, visiting a fish market and wandering through the labyrinth-like streets dotted with artisan shops and cafes.  My mom and I, along with a someone we met on the tour, had a filling Italian lunch–one of the best meals I’ve had since arriving.  Our last day in Valpo, Sunday, we went to one of the town’s squares to the weekly antique fair, finding a couple interesting treasures.  That afternoon we took a bus to Santiago, hauling our excessive amount of luggage through the metro stations and up a long flight of stairs to the hostel where we are now staying.  Happy House Hostel is stunning, with 15-foot ceilings, a bar, entertainment center and a terrace on the roof overlooking the city.  We couldn’t believe it when we were greeted with a welcome drink at the bar!  Today we hope to stop by some of Santiago’s markets and museums and prepare for our departure late tomorrow night.  We have to make the most of our last 24 hours in Chile, and I must enjoy the pisco and wine while I still can!

 

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